Writing for Pauza: the Peace Corps Macedonia Newspaper
January 2012 Pauza
The editors wanted a first month perspective from the smallest village! (I guess that’s me…) The article will run beside a perspective of a volunteer living in a big city.
By Julie Tumasz, TEFL PCV, Zhvan, Macedonia
I’m a Zhvanka. Zhvan, Macedonia, located between Kicevo and Bitola, has a population of two hundred and fifty (plus one American). The village has two prodanitsi and a post office. No cafes, restaurants, supermarkets, bars, bus stations, Veros, Tinexs, boutiques or Bazaars. For me, it’s the most beautiful place in Macedonia. There is not much going on here, but it’s the little things that make my life fulfilled day after day.
When I arrived in Zhvan, I was an alien. I smiled and waved at every single person walking on the path. Most called greetings, some started conversations and others starred. Within a month, everyone is stopping to talk. Everyone knows my name. It’s easy when you’re the only new neighbor in 30 years. I’ve never been good at names and sometimes I forget who I’ve met and who I haven’t! It’s lucky the Macedonian greeting is to shake hands every time you meet!
During placement, I was surprised and slightly disappointed that I was not going to live with a host family. Now, I can’t imagine it any other way. I live the best of both worlds. I enjoy the privilege of solitude every volunteer understands AND I’ve been adopted into numerous host families. My next-door neighbor has taken the role of the over-caring aunt. My counterpart’s grandparents have told me to call them Baba and Dedo. My Macedonian teacher’s family has become my own. (While I’ve referred to her as my Majka, we joke that her husband is actually my older brother.) My village family tree may be confusing but it’s full of love.
Living alone, I’m able to cross age and gender borders where I might have been restricted with a host family. As an American, I consider myself part of my own stereotype. I hang out with every group without limitations. I sled with the kids, I go to Downtown Demir Hisar with my generation, I discuss recipes with the Doma Kinkas, I play pool with the men of the prodanitsa and I drink Rakia with the dedos. My protective aunt tries to shame me from going to the prodanista because I’m a young woman. But I know, I am unique in Zhvan and through that, I’m able to experience every perspective, woman, man, young, old. To get the most out of the next two years, I want to understand every Zhvance!
Understanding the national traditions of Macedonia and the local traditions of Zhvan is like unraveling a mystery for me. What is a Zhvan tradition and what is Macedonian? For example, during Zhvan’s Voditici, a traditional Macedonian cross was thrown plus a 100-year-old traditional village song was sung. Five dancing girls repeated a verse 66 times for every young man to find their love in the coming year. Only after the event did I realize that was a unique Zhvan tradition. I’ve found that a large cultural event is the fastest way that these strangers can become my friends through just a single experience. There, I’m the student and my neighbors revel in the opportunity to become my teacher. I know I must have been taught to dance Oro at least 30 times!
Nagosti is the Zhvan’s Nightlife and Entertainment. When I visit my friends and neighbors, I feel totally fulfilled, socially and professionally. Since integration is part of our job, simply sitting and chatting is work time! I’ve experienced many kinds of Nagosties. I’ve seen the formalities of the Slava Celebrations, the kid’s birthday parties, the Macedonian handball games, the imen-dens, and of course, the never ending Christmas holidays. One Nagosti even led to a three-day sleepover at the house of my adopted family. I’ve also experienced the excitement of having my own Nagostis, including hosting my own Slava for American Christmas. Others may think that the absence of formal nightlife is negative. But through the lack of bars and restaurants, I’ve been forced to experience a new type of social community that for me is alive and happening! My goal is to Nagosti all 250 Zhvance within two years.
My advice to all volunteers living in a small village: Get out there and live your unique life. Girls, don’t be afraid to play poker in the prodanitsa. Guys, go cook Rochek with your nearby Baba. Try to experience something new everyday!
